Maintaining a proper moisture protein balance within your hair is probably the most critical aspect to growth retention. If this balance is disturbed, interrupted or weighted too heavily to one side or the other, the result is breakage. The most basic explanation of moisture and protein as it relates to your hair is -
Moisture = Flexibility/Elasticity
Protein = Strength/Structure
- and you need both in order for your hair to grow to its longest lengths.
Both moisture and protien can be added to your strands through internal consumption and by topical use. However, the most instantaneous of the two is to add them to your hair topically.
Moisture - Black hair craves and thrives on moisture. If you are not using a WATER-based moisturizer on your hair DAILY you MUST start NOW! I cannot talk about moisturizing Black hair without saying GREASE AND OIL ARE NOT MOISTURIZERS. The molecular structure of most oils (especially the oils that are most commonly used on Black hair - mineral oil & petroleum) is not small enough to penetrate the hair shaft. The common result of putting grease and/or oil in your hair is coating your strands not moisturizing them. Greases and oils are great for locking moisture into your strands and should be used primarily for that purpose.
O.K. Now that I have gotten the 'grease/oil is not moisture' talk out of the way, lets talk a little bit about what it REALLY means to moisturize Black hair.
As I mentioned earlier, a good moisturizer is water-based. What that bascially means is that water is listed as one of the first 3 ingredients - usually the first. Contrary to popular opinion, Black hair LOVES water and should be given water at least once per day by either using a moisturizer or by simply spraying water on the hair. Other moiturizing ingredients to look for are glycerin, pathenol and sorbitol.
Moisture is also fed to hair through deep conditioning. It is very important that Black hair is deep conditioned at least once per week with a good moisturizing conditioner - like Motions Moisture Plus. For the maximum resutls when deep conditioning use heat for at least 20 minutes.
Moisture can be obtained through co-washing and baggying, too.
Protein - Unlike moisture, heavy protein should not be put in your hair every day, or even every week. Typically, it is not as critical to stay on top of protein as it is to stay on top of moisture. Most of the time it is sufficient enough to use light protein (like the original Mane & Tail conditioner, the original Infusium Leave-In or cheap rinse-out conditioners like V05) weekly and sometimes daily - depending on your hair; some people's hair responds negatively to ANY type of protein. Heavy protein treatments (like Mega Tek, Nexxus Emergencee or APhOGEE) only should be used from time to time to give your hair a strengthening/structural boost. The best time to do a heavy protein treatment is immediately after a relaxer (if you relax) followed by a deep conditioning treatment. Protein can be identified on product ingredient lists by looking for wheat protein, soy protein or animal protein.
Protein-based products are also called reconstructors, will be described as "strengthening" or "rebuilding" and the instructions on most heavy proteins will tell you to only leave it on your hair for up to a few minutes.
How do I tell what my hair needs? Well, if you are just starting out your healthy hair journey I would suggest that you start by stepping up your moisture and leave the protein out of the equation. Most often Black hair is lacking moisture and not protein. Once you feel confident that your moisture-levels are up - after about 30 days of consistent moistuizing and weekly deep conditioning - check your strands with a basic strand test. Examine a strand of your hair and gently pull it. If it breaks easily without much tension and your hair feels dry and brittle, MOISTURE. If the strand seems to be extra stretchy, your hair feels mushy when wet and "stretches" when you comb it, PROTEIN. A strand with the proper balance will be taut, and take the right amount of force to break.
Every head of hair will be different. Get to know your hair and examine individual strands often. Once you get into the swing of things, you will know, automatically, what your hair needs.
Moisture Maniac has such a nice ring to it! It'd make me smile everytime I use it, and mumble "Moisture maniac, moisture maniac." lol!
Posted by: Darling Cancerian | February 02, 2010 at 01:14 PM
YES! YES! YES! THIs is GOOOOOD. REEEEEEEEAl goood.
Posted by: Darling Cancerian | February 02, 2010 at 01:13 PM
Im going on 20 months. I've been braiding and weaving for the majority, but this last take down has me itching to just chop it already.
Posted by: temi | February 01, 2010 at 11:03 AM
Omg I had to tell you that I finally got around to trying out the moisture maniac and I love it. I have never had such soft tangle free hair in my transition.
Thanks for the suggestion, love the blog
LHDC: Thanks for reading, Temi!!! And YES Moisture Maniac is the BOMBdiggity for real. I'm glad that you like it! It does wonders when you seal with Amla oil or EVCO...you hair will literally stay moist for days.....
How far are you into your transition?
Posted by: temi | January 29, 2010 at 02:05 PM