There's no such thing as DEEP conditioning?????

Could deep conditioning be a myth?

Written by JC of The Natural Hair Haven

I was watching QVC (uh huh), when a trichologist (hair scientist) was asked about leaving a conditioner in hair for longer for more of an effect and his reply was, 'It is formulated to get to maximum potential in 5 minutes. You can leave it on for longer but not for added effect. ' At that point I really began to wonder why is it that my hairdresser at the time always recommended deep conditioning for 20 minutes at least once a week? Is it pointless?

In my search for an answer I came across a post on thebeautybrains.com which contained a letter from a trichologist Barry J Stevens who described deep conditioning as 'wishful thinking' . I don't really know the authenticity of this letter but it made me even more interested to find out the fact from fiction.

First step, what really happens when you condition your hair? If you use shampoo, then what you first do is remove excess oils and grease from your hair leaving you with a clean shaft. What DOES NOT happen is 'opening of the cuticle'. I thought I should draw some of this out, just incase people's eyes start glazing over.

What can open up the cuticle? Commonly, chemical processing of hair such as relaxing or colour rely on alkaline products and these CAN open up the cuticle. Your average shampoo does not have the ability to do this. They are mostly mildly acidic to neutral (around pH 6-7 though 8 is considered ok) because cosmetic scientists need to consider that the shampoo can end up in your eyes, face and mouth, so it is safer to be close to neutral. See this site for some pH ranges of shampoo. Lisa Akbari also advertises a shampoo at pH 5. The pH of hair and skin is a range between 4.5 to 5.5.

Therefore, if your hair is natural, you most likely have a closed cuticle as has been seen scientifically (Khumalo et al, Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 2000, pp 814-820).

This leads to the question, if the cuticle is closed then what can really get in? Well two things can, water and some oils.

What kind of oil can get into the hair cortex? The complex answer is many different oils to varying degrees. The simple answer is coconut oil and olive oil have been shown to penetrate hair quite well (Hornby et al, Int Journal of cosmetic science 2005 pg299-300). This now leaves the question, what exactly is the purpose of conditioner? Well most conditioners do just work on the outside. They soften the hair, help smooth the cuticle, minimize static, sometimes help the water stay in the cortex. When rinsed off they do leave some conditioning agents behind which keep the hair feeling soft.

So why do so many people say that deep conditioning is good? Well maybe they just have a better procedure and can get more out of it. 1. Make sure you have sufficient water, make sure you wet your hair properly and make sure your chosen conditioner has coconut oil or olive oil. If it doesn't, consider adding a teaspoon or so to it (portion out the part you are going to use and add the oil to that, do not put it into the main container). 2. Concentrate on applying the conditioner very well so as to cover your all your hair. Don't plop the conditioner onto the middle of your head, back and sides. Take your time, part the hair and apply to small sections. 3. Do you need heat? It takes 15 min for hair to get saturated in pure water while steam takes 18 hours or more (Robbins, Chemical and Physical Behaviour of Human Hair, Springer). Water directly on your hair through wetting is probably more useful than steam or vapour. 4. Should you leave it on for longer? Well you can do so if you want to, but if you leave it just for the stipulated time, then you don't need to worry too much.

Comments

[Charda]

I have to agree with those who know the science behind hair, versus the concensus of going off of whatsomeone who lacks the education and knowledge about the subject says. It is liken to telling a surgeon during surgery what he needs to do because of what you read in Cosmo< despite his extensive specialty and training on your surgery. My stylist told me the same thing,and said alot of talk taking place on hair forums are pseudo science and pointless, but alot is also useful. I love this article. Sometimes we want to be the end all be all with hair tips, at the end of the day, we must trust the REAL facts.

[Tashina]

I don't really believe in dc'ing. Too me, they (deep conditioning products) function in two ways:

1. To steam water in your hair

2. Ingredients in excess of water simply function as hair shaft smoothers (oils notwithstanding*).

So, leaving a conditioner in your hair is just allowing the hair to soak in water for a while. If you have a good conditioner, then it will give your hair a softer feeling as well as slip. Now, the first and second points I've made (about what I believe dc'ing actually is) are actually good things. However, the effect never lasts long (for me), and I really have gotten the same effect just washing and using a rinse out conditioner (per the rinse out conditioner's instructions, not as a dc'ing treatment).

Basically, it's a moisture game. And moisture is water.

It's all about trapping water in the hair, and that can be done with basic daily moisturizing and sealing.

I do, however, believe in the power of a hot oil treatment**. It's the one thing that I've actually noticed makes a difference on my hair (both while I was relaxed and now that I'm natural).

I simply apply oil on dry hair, and leave it in for 30 minutes (dryer or heat cap). Then I wash and condition with regular shampoo and conditioner.

Oddly enough, I'm actually moving away from the hot oil treatments because I apply (and leave-in) the same oils to my hair on a daily basis. I don't see any reason in applying them for a specialized treatment. The same rules as with dc'ing apply for this as well, IMO.

*The oils forumulated in most conditioners are usually highly refined, so IMO they don't count. I also don't believe in all those herbalized and vitaminized (and I know neither are words) products. Just cute marketing à mon avis.

**I differentiate between dc'ing and hot oil treatments. I view dc'ing as with a conditioner specifically made for that purpose (usually containing water), and hot oil treatments are just using oils (nothing else, no water) to condition the hair.

@Darling Cancerian:

I don't think the article is over analyzing so much as challenging conventional marketing, methods, and thoughts relating to hair care. I've found that a lot of healthy hair practices I've been taught are actually incredibly unnecessary.

@Longhairdontcare: (OT)

I right click to correct the spelling of a word, or to open a post in another window/tab-not to copy LOL.

[Darling Cancerian]

I'd have to disagree because that would be like saying marinating hard vegetables is a myth. I have the most fragile hair type, the dryest which means that it COULD get hard, and I notice the "marinating" effect with the longer I baggy a conditioner. That's deep conditioning for me.

Whoever created this article must be an overanalyzing, nit picking Gemini! I love talking to Geminis. So stimulating!

[Lorrett]

Sounds like deep conditioning is useless. I was wondering that anyway. Lots of people use the conditioner only method where they leave it in the hair besides rinsing it out, so in turn they don't need the deep conditioning. But, it is said that conditioners and deep conditioner have the same ingredients and I've noticed that too. I just wonder why some claim that steaming is soooo great! Maybe leaving the oils in longer gets more of it into the cuticle. Got me. But with what you researched made oil rinsing make since. I love oil rinsing. You shampoo and rinse in warm water, apply your preferred oil, rinse in warm water, then apply conditioner and rinse in cool to almost cool water. It works really well compared to deep conditioning.

[Caribgirl]

I believe from personal experience that deep conditioning with heat is effective in acquiring and maintaining healthy hair. This article is very interesting and well written. I would like to add that steaming the hair during a deep conditioner will allow faster penetration to the hair shaft as opposed to sitting under a dryer with a conditioning cap; as a result, less time is needed. Now for those without a steamer, deep conditioning for at least 15 minutes will allow enough time for the entire head of hair to be deep conditioned. Also, I would think that one's hair porosity should be checked after shampooing and before deep conditioning to improve the results of the treatment.

[limah]

hi LHDC!!! nice read...i was just thinking to myself...just take care of your hair and it will grow...my famiy members have beautiful heads of hair and they don't know the first thing about all the hair sites on the net...they just take care of their hair...do they deep condition??? heck no!!! Soooooo to play it safe...me...im stickin' to the directions :)

[BIA No More]

Hmmmm... very interesting. I am hairarexic so I think nothing works for my hair and my hair STILL isn't long enough, full enough, or ENOUGH anything.... but I will keep on my kitchen chemist game and sit under the dryer JIC

BIA No Mo

[MrsT]

I love the Natural Haven, I once commented to JC that because I'm relaxed I feel like a spy when I read her site, but its so educational I just can't stay away.To answer the question I do think deep conditioning with heat has benefit. I have seen the difference in my own hair, but I agree that you can only get the benefits of deep conditioning from a deep conditioner. Leaving a regular conditioner on your hair for 2 hours probably won't give the same results as leaving a deep conditioner on your hair (with heat) for 20 minutes.